The new XB1 controller is a CG (Common Ground) setup for all of the Buttons. The Triggers are also in a setup where they go Lo when pressed, but they are a bit more complex than the 10k Potentiometer style that its 360 predecessor sported, more detail on those later.1537 BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP1537 BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM1537 MCU BOARD TOP1537 MCU BOARD BOTTOMIf any button is wished to be duplicated, it's just a matter of one side of the new button going to any Ground spot, then the other side going to the button line that you want to duplicate. The connectors J5 and J6 are the best place to solder up wires for all of the buttons, with the exceptions of B, LSC and RSC. The B button has a Via, as well as a solder pad at D14 directly beneath it that can be used. Then the LSC and RSC connections can be made right on the solder joints for them.If a Trigger is wished to be duplicated, it will get done the same way, one side of the new button will go to Ground, the other side to the LT or RT line, but install a 10ohm Resistor on one side or the other of the new Tact switch so it's not a direct short to Ground when the Tact is pressed. Welcome guys.@ GhoSt - Mainly I use a level PCB, because that's really the only way to get a level scan of one.Being flat on the scan bed isn't as important as being parallel to it, as long as you're not too far away from it.If you have components that are in the way that make the PCB sit at too much of an angle, a little bit of an angle is usually alright, but if it's too much then you have a couple of options.1- Remove some components so they allow the PCB to sit more level.
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In the case of this Button/Power board the Bumper switches are removed. Then the height differences between the remaining components are level enough.2- Use some brace or counter weights on the back side so the PCB will 'appear' level to the scan bed. This was done with some Quarters on the CG2 scans here. They can be seen on the front scan at the Headset connector being used to hold that edge of the PCB up so it's level to the scan bed. Then on the back side scan, you can see them thru the center mounting hole, where they are being used to balance the PCB on the Rumble, PnC and Headset connectors so the board stays level and doesn't sit all lop sided like it would if the counter weight wasn't back there.If you meant the hardware being used, it's a dinosaur Scanjet 3570c, and they are scanned at 1200dpi. PLAY & CHARGE CABLEThe PnC cable has a Bi-Color (Amber/White) LED in it for showing the charging/charged state of the PnC Pack, along with a few other components and a 4-layer PCB.Pin 4 of the microUSB connector is used for changing the LED, 0v = Amber, 3.3v = White.PnC CABLEHEADSETThe Headset connector this go around uses a 12 pin connector, that will more than likely do plenty more before all is said and done as it's overkill. The connector has the Audio Codec chip, a Texas Instruments TLV320AIC3204 and a PICLF26K22 inside it along with other support components for doing signal processing.HEADSET AUDIO BOARD TOPHEADSET AUDIO BOARD BOTTOMThe Microphone and Speaker connections, wire colors, at least for now, are.GND = Ground, CopperMIC = Microphone, WhiteHPR = Headphone Right, Black, Speaker -HPL = Headphone Left, Blue, Speaker +.
RDC - Great scans and traces as always. I know there are tons of guys doing some form of a 2.5mm mod to the Mic Puck to use 3rd party headsets. I actually do one myself by installing a small 2.5mm port where the wire stop sits.
Ive seen guys say to drop out the black wire (HPR) to essentially let the Speaker and Mic Share a ground since the aftermarket headsets use a 3 pole plug and not a 4 to allow true stereo from the puck to the headset.question, can anything be changed to alter the voltage and increase speaker volume? Can a resistor be taken off and bypassed? No, not like that there isn't.The TLV chip is using the HPR and HPL in a BTL configuration, like bridging the Left and Right outputs of a car amp so you get more power, but also mono sound.
Since the XB1 headset only has one speaker, this is why that was most likely done. Using only one side or the other is a Single Ended setup, and naturally has less power, so less volume, but it's also incorrect to do that as the TLV has not been reconfigured to output that way.Everything on that TLV chip is done Digitally, from how it gets it's signal to how it's setup internally to use that signal as well as the max gain of said signal. It's not just a simple amplifier, it's a pretty complex DAC, AMP and mess of things. The way the XB1 controller's power setup works isn't quite like the 360 controller, this one has been done a bit better. The power comes from either 2x AA or the PnC pack that uses 2 x 3.7v Lipo batteries in parallel, similar to the 360 deal, but here these are used to power a couple of DC-DC converters that power everything inside the controller, so you always have 3.3v and 3.5v to the controller. So no matter what voltage the batteries are at, within the DC-DC useable range as well as how M$ has the battery voltage detection setup it's always 3.3v. There is also a 3rd DC-DC converter, but it's just to knock down the USB 5v to 3v for the other 2 DC-DC to use when the PnC cable is connected, just mentioning it for the sake of completeness.With the PnC pack, you'll never see anything lower than 3v from it, as it has a 3v internal Reg, but the battery protection circuit that's built into it kills it before that to protect the cells from under voltage issues.
All of that battery monitoring is done digitally with that thing, so it's always 3v until it croaks. I'd have to poke around in there for a bit to figure that one out exactly.With the AA batteries, they work down to around 2v or so before the controller doesn't care for them any more, but because of the DC-DC converters the controller gets 3.3v the entire time, so a fresh set of AA that give around 3.3v or ones run down until they're around 2v or so, the controller always gets 3.3v to it. So in light of the trigger fix thread being deleted shortly after I presented my reasonings for why your trigger replacement circuit is likely causing damage to the sensors leading to their premature failure, I thought I would offer you the opportunity to explain it here. If this forum's policy is ignorance is bliss at the expense of its forum members then so be it.
But as somebody who I believe is an engineer you know data is data and I hope you will have the confidence to hear me out and let you decide for yourself if my findings are accurate.So in light of the thread being restored, I won't repeat myself here other than to say I believe the recommended load resistor should be as high as possible in terms of resistance while still allowing the MCU to register a trigger pull. Through the use of a trim-pot, I was able to empirically discover that this ideal resistance is roughly 330 ohms. With a 330 ohm load resistor, there will be no functional difference from the user's perspective, but it will put much less stress on the sensor which I believe is a very wise thing to do given the fact that nobody here knows the actual part# and thus it's output current capability.On a completely different note. I would be interested in your take on how to best disable wireless functionality. Do you know if the Y1 oscillator is required by the Wifi/Security chip on the castellated board to function properly or is it only used for upconverting the baseband to the 2.4Ghz carrier frequency?
@RDC So in my first attempt to mod and Xbox One controller, I think that i may have made a mistake while de-soldering my power LED. I either messed up the solder point or??? I have no idea. Is there a way to fix the solder point, or solder a small wire to another point for power? Everything functions on the controller EXCEPT for the power LED. It's not a big deal to me just a small annoyance that i would like to fix if it is possible.
If needed I can include some pictures of the board if needed.Thanks for the help! Hello Sir.Thank you very much for this PCB Scans.I used this to made a LED Controller Mod.I have just one question. I wanted to use TP9 point for 3.3V and TP24 for Ground. The problem is, that the Pad on TP9 falled of by mistake, so i cant use this anymore. Instead of this, i used TP25, but at the end i saw that the LEDs shines, just when i put in the Batteries. I dont want to use that method.I want them to light up when i press the Guide Button and turn the Controller on, just like the Guide Button Led (also this pads are off):/+)+&&8So my question is, is there any other Pad i could solder a LED to?
TP7 will work fine, as long as you don't nuke it as well.I have no idea what level of soldering experience you have, aside from lifting some TP spot, so the smaller LEDs you might not get along with too well without some practice on them. The smaller SMT components get the more difficult they are to solder, so get you about 10 spares to practice on, and some masking tape, as you'll not find a better third hand for holding that tiny stuff in place while you solder on it with an iron.Any 0603 or the bit larger 0805 will work and be more than bright enough for what you're wanting to do. You'll see more wire than LED, so use some 30awg Kynar wire if you can. If those are too small, then the 3mm thru hole type LEDs might be what you're needing as they can be made to fit in most places as well. No idea what an access port is.If you're referring to the actual B button pad, then it looks like it was already scrapped on, and you should have just went with that and been done. If you mean the Via, then you're out of luck, as that's exactly where it will have to go unless you want to solder to the MCU lead.You'll have to cut off what's left of that dangling trace and either prep it to solder a wire onto the bit of it that's still on the board, then jumper down the the Via where it originally went, or from the left of the B button pad to the Via. That trace and Via (red) can be seen in the PCB scans in the first post.
We disassemble and Xbox One S controller, have a look inside then reassemble it. We show how to remove the plastic grips that are held on by clips, then remove the 4 screws holding the controller together. After that we have a look at the inside of the Xbox One S controller and find that it looks very similar to the original Xbox One.After we take a look at the inside we show how to line up the plastic shell in order to get it back together properly. After aligning the back cover with the battery contacts we put the 4 screws back in and snap the plastic grips back into place.Web:Facebook:Instagram:Twitter:Tools I use:-Protech Toolkit:-Torx Security T8:-PH00 Phillips:-Tweezer Set:-Electric Screwdriver:-Thermal Paste:-Canned Air:Equipment Used:-Hakko Hot Air Station:-Nozzle for hot air station:-Hakko Soldering Station:-Hakko Air Filter:-Microscope:-Kester Solder:TronicsFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video.
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